• Sink holes, Post tension slabs and Radon….Trifecta
    I've found that manometers with data logging capabilities are super helpful when we know we have pfe, but we're still losing. It's really nice to know where and when you lose pressure (assuming that is what is happening).

    Also, I've seen a situation where an ecosense products gave us bad data. Look at the data really carefully and make sure it makes sense.
  • Air "Purifiers" and Radon
    Bill, I haven't read the original research, but I believe Dave Wilson's name is on the training material that speaks to an increase in the unattached fraction, and I have discussed this topic with him in the past. If I remember correctly, he has been involved in some RDP filtering research.
  • Alarms are mandatory now on radon systems
    Robert Burns, We use minihelic gages on outside systems. They work great, and not too expensive. They also don't have the issue with the u-tube fluid getting clear.
  • Minnesota Radon Rules
    For clarification, Randy, you are quoting an old version of the rule. I have copied the relevant section of the rule and also posted a link to the full rule. The current rule for mitigation has similar language.

    §Subp. 4. Expiration; renewal; continuing education.
    A. A radon measurement professional license is valid for one year from the date of issuance.
    B. A radon measurement professional may apply to renew a license after completing eight hours of continuing education approved by the commissioner under part 4620.7700.
    C. To renew an expired license, an applicant must submit a renewal application by submitting the information required under subpart 5 and must:
    (1) complete eight hours of continuing education approved by the commissioner under part 4620.7700 for every year or part of a year that the license has lapsed;
    (2) complete an initial radon measurement course approved by the commissioner under part 4620.7700; or
    (3) pass a radon measurement examination as approved by the commissioner under part 4620.7700.”
  • I have 2 questions.
    Ryan is correct that the piping is airtight (or at least should be and we operate under the assumption that it is installed properly). So, no radon is going to get out. I'm assuming that your question is more directed towards a concern about radioactive decay coming through the pipe. The alpha particles that we are mostly concerned about as a cause of lung cancer, can't make it through the pipe. Gamma radiation could make it through the pipe. Ryan brings up a good question about radon decay products "sticking" to the inside of the pipe. Without a significant build up of decay products, there wouldn't be enough gamma to be a concern. I'm assuming the surface area isn't great enough for enough decay products to build up to a point where gamma emissions are significant, but I don't know the answer to that. Maybe @Shawn Price, @Leo Moorman, or others could answer that.
  • I have 2 questions.
    Hi George, I was unaware that this forum was only for AARST members. I am glad you are seeking out information about radon before building! While studies show that radon resistant new construction systems perform better when installed by knowledgeable (certified usually qualifies) it certainly doesn't hurt to have some knowledge yourself. The state radon office or the national radon program is a great place to start. This forum is also a great place for radon info. To answer your question about radon being heavier than air...It is a misconception that radon settles downward because it is a heavy atom. Air is a mixture. Radon is one of the atoms or molecules that make up air (nitrogen, oxygen, etc...). The atomic forces are stronger than gravitational forces so radon stays within the mixture and dissipates into the atmosphere when exhausted out of a radon system. Radon has a tendency to be higher in basements, not because it is heavier than the other things in air, but because it is closer to the source, the soil.
  • Extreme carbon dioxide and radon levels
    I had some friends in Wichita that experienced extremely high levels of some soil gas ( I don't recall that it was Co2) after heavy rain. It was probably the story Dan is referring to and I'm guessing it happened 10 or 12 years ago. I don't have any idea what would cause high Co2 concentrations in the soil, but I do know heavy rain will increase soil gas entry significantly, many times even in buildings with mitigation systems installed. This spring has been especially bad for rain induced radon concentration spikes.

    Rain induced radon spikes happen in all types of soil conditions (permeable vs tight). I work in an area with mostly very tight soils, but I have seen rain induced radon spikes in a house with very permeable soils (not sure if it was karst or glacial moraine). A little off topic but interesting, atmospheric pressure actually played a pretty big roll in radon concentrations in that house. There will likely be a presentation dealing with that house at the symposium.
  • RRNC
    John, very good points. After helping implement RRNC in my home town and helping with a study to determine it's effectiveness a couple years later, I kick myself for helping with the effort.

    The point of what we do as radon professionals is to reduce risk. I do not think RRNC, as currently implemented (even when inspected by a city), reduces risk, because of the false sense of security that builder's and Realtors give buyers.

    A test has to be required.
  • Horizontal drilling or hand drilling under slab
    Check out . I've never gone 16 ft, but I'm pretty confident I could based on my experience with those augers. A 4.75" bit will go through the hardest clay I've seen with a standard right angle drill. Good luck, sounds like an interesting project!
  • Rotary Hammer Recomedations
    I use a used (eBay $400) Hilti te-70, mainly because it drills 5 inch holes faster than any other tool I've used ( I have not done a comprehensive scientific study). But with a Bosch 5 inch Hammer Core bit it goes through most basement slabs in 3-4 minutes and foundation walls (as long as I miss rebar) in 7-8 minutes. The first one I had broke about every other time I used it, but it was used as well, so I tried this one and have about 200 holes in this one with no issues so far (I have kept this one greased, the last one not so much).

Chad Robinson

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